Re: Steaming vs. Boiling

From: George Chang (gwchang@uclink4.berkeley.edu)
Date: Thu Jul 01 2004 - 15:07:53 PDT

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    Glen Davidson writes about cooking the local lobster...

    >I am currently investigating the relative merits of steam cooking
    >vs. boiling of lobsters (Panulirus cygnus). There are many claims
    >made by steam cooker manufacturers concerning increased recoveries
    >of steamed vs. boiled lobsters. However, I have yet to see any hard
    >data (cook profiles, etc) to substantiate these claims....
    >I have recently completed my own trials comparing steaming and
    >boiling, in which the end points of cooking were determined by
    >monitoring product core temperatures during each cook and from these
    >process lethality values for polyphenoloxidase enzymes were
    >calculated for each treatment. Steamed and boiled lobsters were
    >cooked to equivalent lethality values. I have a result, but was
    >wondering if anyone who has conducted similar trials might be
    >willing to share their findings in order to verify my own.

    Hi Glen,

            I've often wondered about this question, but as usual, done
    precious little experimentation. However I'd like to venture a guess
    about your results. I'd guess that your boiled lobsters were more
    tender and juicier than your steamed ones. Here's the basis of my
    guess:

    1) With animal muscle, the time and temperature of heating can
    greatly affect the tenderness and juiciness (I think that more
    sophisticated people would call it 'water holding capacity.'). More
    time-temp means tougher and drier.

    2) With steaming, the temperature at the surface would be very close
    to 100 deg C, give or take a little depending on atmospheric
    pressure. This is hot.

    3) With boiling, the temperature would be about 100 deg C at the
    bottom of the pot, where the bubbles form. Again, give or take a
    little for the depth of the water and the barometric pressure. But
    where the lobsters are, the temperature could well be less than 100
    deg. This would give a lower temperature cook and a more tender
    product. Especially if you kept the lobsters in water/steam until
    you saw your target internal temperature.

    4) Those people who find steamed seafood to be more tender than
    boiled probably remove the product from the steam before the internal
    temperature peaks, but then know from experience that the deep core
    temperature will reach their target before it starts to drop. Those
    who don't have the right experience may serve undercooked seafood.

    5) To guess a little more, maybe the best way to get tender but
    adequately cooked lobster is to have the cooking water
    thermostatically controlled at a little below boiling temperature and
    then to cook until the internal temperature gets high enough. I'd
    also guess that this may be a good way to cook what we Californians
    call 'rock cod' or 'red snapper.' Their flesh toughens seriously in
    cooking.

            I'd be interested to hear what you and others with real
    experience have found.

    Best regards,
    George Chang (Berkeley, California)



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