[IAMSLIC:1701] Palau Seeks Environmental Identity

From: Jane Barnwell (barnwell@hawaii.edu)
Date: Thu Mar 28 2002 - 19:40:10 PST

  • Next message: Apacionado, Marlyn: "[IAMSLIC:1702] ILL.FILLED [Larval References]"

    Passing along a news item of interest to some IAMSLIC members.
    Aloha,
    Jane

    >http://pidp.eastwestcenter.org/pireport/2002/March/03-25-01.htm
    >
    >PACIFIC ISLANDS REPORT
    >
    >Pacific Islands Development Program/East-West Center
    >With Support From Center for Pacific Islands Studies/University of
    >Hawai'i
    >
    >PALAU SEEKS ENVIRONMENTAL IDENTITY
    >
    >By Scott Radway
    >
    >KOROR, Palau (March 25, 2002 - Pacific Daily News)---Uro Ikesakes
    >started fishing in Airai Bay when he was a teen-ager, swimming side by
    >side with his family and friends, spearing fish after fish from a
    >bustling coral reef.
    >
    >Fishing in the bay was a way of life in the village.
    >
    >Things are different now, more than 50 years later, but not because he
    >is any less of a fisherman. His aqua-blue bay, once home to a healthy
    >coral reef, is now mud-red and home to almost nothing but algae. After
    >a full day of fishing today, his cooler is maybe half full.
    >
    >"We don't fish there anymore," said the 68-year-old subsistence
    >fisherman, his crow's feet framing his wistful stare.
    >
    >His is an unusual story for Palau, a small Pacific island nation with
    >a population of under 20,000, known the world over for its awing
    >natural beauty and its abundance of fish. But his is a story some
    >officials fear could become all too common if leaders don't plan well
    >for the future.
    >
    >The cause of their alarm is a multimillion-dollar U.S. road project on
    >the pristine island of Babeldaob that they say has brought Palau to a
    >monumental environmental and cultural crossroad.
    >
    >Babeldaob is the second largest island in Micronesia after Guam and
    >comprises 70 percent of the nation's land. But for years the center of
    >the government and population has been the much smaller island of
    >Koror where modern infrastructure exists.
    >
    >The road will change that.
    >
    >In about two years, U.S.-contracted workers are expected to lay 53
    >miles of asphalt to circle Babeldaob and create an enormous potential
    >for modern development such as hotels, golf courses and new homes. For
    >perspective, Palau's roads currently total only 83 miles.
    >
    >In Airai State, the first state on Babeldaob over the bridge from
    >Koror, development has already begun as some of the population in
    >Koror -- where about 70 percent of the nation's people live -- is
    >beginning to move over the bridge that connects the two islands.
    >
    >Along with the work for the road, parcels have been cleared for homes,
    >for farms and for a golf course. And the reef, where Ikesakes once
    >fished bountifully, is being buried by the dirt running off the land
    >from the new development, marine biologists say. Erosion, no longer
    >controlled by the natural vegetation, has suffocated Airai Bay,
    >killing coral and leaving it nearly barren of fish.
    >
    >Airai State is a good example of what will happen on the rest of the
    >island if Palauans do not plan ahead, said Noah Idechong, a Palau
    >Delegate and world-renowned environmentalist. It's high time for
    >people to decide how the island should be developed and how much
    >should be developed, he said.
    >
    >At stake is Palauan culture and the identity of its people who have so
    >long lived in harmony with the sea and land, Idechong said. Without
    >the reefs, so much is lost.
    >
    >"There is no time. We need to decide what we want our island to be,"
    >Idechong said. "Because if the road goes in and we haven't decided,
    >all hell will break loose."
    >
    >To be Palauan
    >
    >Palauans are a proud and ambitious people.
    >
    >They are proud of their culture, their heritage, their traditions. And
    >they are eager to compete in the modern world, eager to keep pace with
    >technology, medicine and wealth.
    >
    >Palauans will openly tell you that the mix presents a conflict. To
    >compete in the modern world an economy must grow and when that happens
    >a traditional society is put at risk.
    >
    >"We have to decide exactly what we want for Palau," said Yimnang
    >Golbuu, a chief researcher with the Palau International Coral Reef
    >Center.
    >
    >Palauans often look to Guam when they consider their potential for
    >development. Guam had a huge boom in the late 1980s and early 1990s.
    >Hotels went up, infrastructure was expanded and the environment was
    >devastated.
    >
    >"Guam basically got burned," said Bob Richmond, a marine biology
    >professor with the University of Guam, working with Palauan officials
    >to protect Babeldaob's reefs.
    >
    >Just 20 years ago, Guam's coral reefs had 70 percent more fish. With
    >the reefs' demise Guam also has seen much of its traditional culture
    >diluted. The sea, which was an invaluable bond for Chamorro families,
    >was lost as the reefs were degraded and Guam became more like a slice
    >of America, dotted with strip malls, multi-screen theaters and
    >numerous fast-food restaurants.
    >
    >"If we are not careful, we will end up like Guam," Golbuu said.
    >
    >But to be clear, the $125-million U.S. road project is something the
    >Palauans asked for. The island nation made it a condition of the
    >compact agreement signed with the United States in 1994 when Palau
    >gained its independence. Federal and local officials call it the
    >Compact Road.
    >
    >"The road is our economic bloodline," said Kione Isechal, an engineer
    >with the Palauan president's office acting as a liaison with the U.S.
    >Army Corps of Engineers as the project moves forward.
    >
    >Since the colonial days, when the Germans, the Japanese and the United
    >States controlled Palau, the center of activity has been Koror where
    >the best harbors are and the modern infrastructure was developed.
    >
    >But the state of Koror is only 36 square miles compared to Babeldaob's
    >127 square miles. The long lines of cars up and down the main two-lane
    >roads during rush hour are clear proof of its limited size and
    >infrastructure.
    >
    >"The road will be very useful for opening our island for economic
    >development," Isechal said. "We are confident, with proper planning,
    >development will be done right."
    >
    >The Palauan government already is building a new capital in the middle
    >of Babeldaob. Isechal said the president's office is well aware of the
    >environmental risks of development, but construction methods can be
    >improved and impacts mitigated.
    >
    >"The road is a good project," Isechal said. "It's a shame we have to
    >make some environmental sacrifice, but they are calculated sacrifices.
    >It's our responsibility to balance it."
    >
    >How much is enough?
    >
    >As Idechong steered his motorboat up the Ngermeskang River and through
    >the thick jungle, he pointed to the red water that was turning a pale
    >brown as the bow cut it.
    >
    >"That is from the road," Idechong said, pointing at the dirt that was
    >churning in the river.
    >
    >The Ngermeskang River is the largest river in Micronesia and it runs
    >into Ngaremeduu Bay, creating the largest and most biological diverse
    >estuary in Micronesia. The area is an environmental jewel.
    >
    >Leaders of the three Palauan states that share the ownership of the
    >area have recognized that fact and designated some 30,000 acres as a
    >conservation area.
    >
    >But that area, like all of Babeldaob, is at risk from the road project
    >and coming development, Idechong said. Already, silt from road
    >clearing has turned red portions of the river that were once blue.
    >
    >If more clearing is done in the uplands, more and more dirt will be
    >washed into the river until eventually the vegetation that naturally
    >filters out the dirt will be overburdened, he said. And the reef will
    >be buried like it was in Airai.
    >
    >Idechong was touring the area with acclaimed photographer Norbert Wu
    >to document the changes in the environment so he can show the Palauan
    >Legislature and president the impact of development. Both Wu and
    >Idechong were granted prestigious fellowships from the Pew Charitable
    >Trusts for their environmental work.
    >
    >"If you build the hotels, people will come. That's true," Idechong
    >said. "But how many millions if enough money for 15,000 people?"
    >
    >That is roughly the number of Palauans that live in Palau. Idechong
    >said the vital question for Palauans is how much money they need.
    >Because the reality is a tropical island can only bear so much before
    >the environment is severely harmed and culture lost.
    >
    >Idechong said people also need to put a price tag on the worth of
    >subsistence fishing and the value of Palauan culture.
    >
    >"We never talk about that. What is the worth of value of the
    >subsistence fisherman, the value of culture and family bonding,"
    >Idechong said. "We need to start a dialogue, to start talking about
    >what we want for Palau."
    >
    >If Palau does not, the race for money and development will have no
    >boundaries. The economy will grow, and more foreign labor will be
    >brought in to meet the demand. Idechong notes that, today on Guam,
    >Chamorros are less than 50 percent of the population.
    >
    >"There are a lot of contradictions in Palau. Some people don't think
    >that there have to be sacrifices," he said. "But you can't have
    >everything."
    >
    >Fishermen: An endangered species?
    >
    >About 30 people sat on the wood floor of the meetinghouse in Airai
    >State. They had come to hear about a scientific study into why the
    >coral reef in Airai Bay was near death.
    >
    >At the front sat Vincent Ito, a chief in Airai called Ilbasis. When he
    >was asked how many people were fishermen in the village of Airai, Ito
    >looked confused.
    >
    >"The people here are all fishermen," Ito said matter-of-factly.
    >"Everyone is a fisherman."
    >
    >There are 47 villages like that one on Babeldaob. Village populations
    >range from a handful of people to 500. And in all the villages, there
    >are subsistence fishermen.
    >
    >But this Airai village is the first area to be drastically affected by
    >development. As Koror's population spills over into Babeldaob,
    >professionals are coming to Airai first to build homes.
    >
    >And farmers looking for land have come over too, cutting down trees
    >and filling mangroves to make way for row crops. That is what is
    >killing the reef, marine biologists told the fishermen gathered.
    >
    >Ito said it is too expensive for many fishermen who use traditional
    >fishing methods to invest in motorboats and incur gas costs to fish
    >elsewhere and still turn a profit. These fishermen were simply feeding
    >their families.
    >
    >"No one ever thought fishing would become extinct," Ito said. "Now our
    >fishermen have to look for alternative ways to survive and they are
    >not well-educated. It's hard for them to find jobs."
    >
    >The fear is that Airai fisherman and village families will be turned
    >out in the powerful tide of economic development and turned into
    >welfare cases.
    >
    >Idechong, sitting nearby on the wood floor, stresses again that
    >Palauans need to agree upon a vision to avert a cultural disaster.
    >
    >"We need to set a direction and then we can develop the mechanics,"
    >Idechong said. "We need to define our vision or we stand to lose too
    >much."
    >
    >
    >For additional reports from the Pacific Daily News, go to PACIFIC
    >ISLANDS REPORT News/Information Links:
    >http://pidp.eastwestcenter.org/pireport/news_links_text.htm
    >Newspapers/Pacific Daily News (Guam).

    Jane Barnwell
    Pacific Specialist
    University of Hawai'i at Manoa
    Hamilton Library
    Pacific Collection
    2550 The Mall
    Honolulu, HI 96822
    tel 808-956-9779
    fax 808-956-5968
    barnwell@hawaii.edu



    This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Thu Mar 28 2002 - 19:21:33 PST